March 1st
Frankfurt am Main~Das Haus der Jugend: Backpackers' Lounge
11:00 AM
I MADE IT! There were plenty of times when I thought I wouldn't, but I did!
Everything started off well, but these things usually do. I had one overpacked suitcase, a backpack, a laptop, a passport, AND a fortune cookie that told me I was "headed for a land of sunshine". Nothing could stop me.
Crisis #1
It is more difficult to find tampons in the "Anglo-Saxon" wind of the Newark Liberty International Airport than it should be. This is America for God's sake! I finally had to swallow my pride (for the first of many times during this journey I would venture to guess) and ask the elderly Indian man behind the counter of the convenience shop for four "emergency-size" tampon packages from behind the counter. Needless to say, we were both blushing.
My flight was delayed 45 minutes, which was fine with me as I was anticipating a significant period of downtime before I could check in to my hostel in Frankfurt. Having resolved crisis 1, I sat back, read
The Golden Compass (an extremely quick read btw) and waited to board.
Crisis #2
The beginning of the flight was largely uneventful and included better than average food, an empty seat next to me (!), and a surprisingly good movie selection (first
Michael Clayton, the not so subtle, much-Oscar nominated George Clooney pic Mom would love about a pharmaceutical/chemical company that literally kills people and the less impressive, sappy Daniel Radcliffe vehicle
December Boys). After all of that and the fortune cookie's irrefutable prediction of good weather, I was vexed to hear the pilot (pronounced pee-loat) announce that the Flughafen was geschlossen because of the bad wetter. He added that we had enough to fuel to circle for an hour. Uncomfortable as I was to learn that the pilots were calculating our remaining fuel amounts, it soon became clear that the woman on the occupied side of me felt worse. As we circled, she spiraled further into airsickness...
(by the way, a fire engine just went by the hostel and it is SOOO cute, like a Tonka truck! But I digress)
Finally the airport reopened and we landed. Having deplaned at 9:00 (one hour and 45 min late) and having avoided being splattered with sick from Judith from Sayreville (a guess), I headed to the S-Bahn, the local train. At one point I asked an information booth worker "Sprechen Sie Englisch?", and I received what I would soon realize was the typical response--an eye roll and "yes, of course" in perfect English. I avoided clobbering the woman for this rudeness (keep in mind it was about 3AM to my body and I had abstained from caffeine for nearly 24 hours) and got on the S-Bahn. This clean, sunny ride took me to the UBERSTATION (thats not what they call it, but they should-its HUGE). From there I stepped out into the--wait for it--- brilliant SUNSHINE of Frankfurt!!! Hunan Tea Garden, my faith in you is restored.
I hopped on the 16 tram towards Offenbach . This was a great way to travel; it was warm, clean and comfortable and afforded panoramic views of Frankfurt as we wove from the center of the city into the old neighborhoods of Sachsenhausen. A pleasant automated voice announced each stop--it was lovely. Bear this loveliness in mind for comparison to the horrors that follow.
Crisis #3
Detramming, I consulted the Hostel's directions--"walk on Dreieichstrasse toward the river and make a left on Deutschherrnufer Strasse". It didn't seem too difficult... I found Dreieichstrasse easily (a relief because I was at a loss to pronounce it correctly) and walked in the riverly direction. 10 minutes later (I was hauling about 60 lbs in luggage) I was starting to doubt das Haus der Jugend's directions. But then! A sign! As if dHdJ knew I was losing hope-- "Das Haus der Jugend 500 m -->". Awesome! ...Well, I'll never underestimate meters again. Frankfurt seems to be one of those places where no matter where you're going, it's uphill. Some colleges are like that, and I had purposely avoided them in favor of the pleasantly flat TCNJ.
Soon I was losing hope and patience again--no sleep, no coffee, tons of crap to carry, no end in sight. But lo! another sign-- "Das Haus der Jugend 200 m-->". I know what you're thinking, how German to have a sign right when you need it and not before, just perfect. NO! WRONG! This was one of those rare gems of a sign that points nowhere but to two places at the same time. So I gambled. Of course I chose the wrong one and should have known immediately when it was downhill. Don't worry, I paid for it on the way back. Finally, I dragged my luggage and myself back the other way and up the stairs (yeah) of das Haus der Jugend.
Here's the happy bit: I am now at 11 AM Frankfurt time (5 AM body time) drinking coffee in the Haus' cafe, looking out onto the Main River in the sunshine, and waiting for my fellow TCONJers to arrive. It's a good thing. :)
My first impressions of Frankfurt are as follows:
charming but not feminine
a mixture of old and new without clashing and without trying not to clash
a good amount of friendly drunks and vagrants, one of which called me "unhoefflich" (rude) because I didn't respond to his rants
lots of old knobbly trees and a very pretty river
oh and p.s. Dieter is everywhere here!